At the Four Corners on Lake of the Ozarks, anything is possible.

Boaters can choose the Big Niangua, the long winding Osage Arm, or little Linn Creek. But there's actually a fifth choice: at the center of Four Corners is Angelo's Pizza and Café at Mariner Pier 31.

Mark and Kim Nicola brought more than two decades of the tried and tested Angelo's dishes from Des Moines to Lake of the Ozarks in 2016. They’re back and open for good times with good food and good company for 2017.

The Atmosphere: A Hawkeyes' Haven

The Lake of the Ozarks has a huge Iowan presence, and—hailing from Des Moines—Mark and Kim have made Angelo's a haven for Hawkeyes. Walking into the side bar of Angelo's is like walking into a bar next door to Kinnick Stadium. University of Iowa fans gather to have a drink and jaw about the season's ups and downs.

One entire room of Angelo's is dedicated to Hawkeyes. Swag covers the walls, including a tribute to Hayden Fry and other famous players from years past. That's not to say other collegiate loyalties aren't welcome too -- but they'll find plenty of spirited fun from the Hawkeye regulars.

The Italian Hoagie at Angelo's

Signature Dish: The Italian Hoagie.

Kim Nicola usually greets customers from behind the bar, but one day in mid-April, she stood in for the regular cook, Mark, her husband, and shared Angelo's signature hoagie: the Italian Hoagie, Angelo's-style. Like most of the Angelo's standards, this one is a hearty meal. Specializing in pizza with freshly made crust and sauce using Mark’s own recipes, pizza is a standout choice on any day.

The humble hoagie is equally popular, says Kim. It’s an uncommon blend of savory, cured meats layered between soft, toasted French bread. Crisp bacon pieces lead the flavor pack, and tender, moist ham slices--just like those Grandma might have served for Sunday dinner--are next in the flavor hierarchy, followed closely by sliced turkey, salami, and pepperoni. (Scroll to the end of this article for the recipe!)

A light Italian dressing enhances the savory meats. A crisp lettuce leaf shields tomato slices from direct contact with the bread so the diner enjoys a locally-sourced, ripe slice that hasn’t affected the bread’s texture in the slightest. All the diner will experience is soft bread yielding to crisp, garden-fresh lettuce, a burst of summer in a bite of tomato, and savory, thick layers of meat. Diced onions burst with more garden flavors and their size makes them easy to enjoy with every bite.

Hoagies were first created for working men to carry in their lunch pails and see them through the long afternoon of labor. The Angelo’s version may be for men and women at play, but it is sure to provide quality fuel for sun and water.

A side served with that hoagie is as full of flavor as the sandwich. An order of Angelo's onion rings satisfies salty cravings after a day in the sun. That salt is balanced by ground black pepper used to season a light batter. When fried to a fine crisp, the batter seals in the rings and renders them tender.

The Tuscan Breeze at Angelo's

photo by Al Griffin

Signature Drink: The Tuscan Breeze

Mark Nicola may have fallen into cooking, as Kim would say, because of a grandmother and mother who loved to cook. He absorbed their knowledge along with the good food they served. Kim, on the other hand, enjoys the restaurant business from behind the bar.

One of her favorites is The Tuscan Breeze.

Cranberry juice lends its signature color to coconut rum, raspberry vodka, and pineapple juice to create a drink as invigorating as a sunrise and as soothing as the sunsets over Lake of the Ozarks. (Scroll to the end of this article for the recipe!)

Like the Angelo's location at Mariner Pier 31 on Four Corners, anything is possible with the hearty Italian Hoagie in one hand and a Tuscan Breeze in the other.

By land or by water, Angelo's is accessible and available for lunch and dinner seven days weekly as the season kicks into high gear. Breakfast overseen by fellow Iowan and cook in the kitchen, Christy Rey, is served Saturday and Sunday through the season.

RECIPE:

Angelo's Italian Hoagie

  • Begin with French Bread, approximately 6-8 inches in length, sliced lengthwise
  • On the grill or in a skillet, lightly and quickly toast the open halves of the bread.
  • Layer one half with ham, pepperoni, turkey, salami, and pieces of crisp bacon to taste.
  • Add diced onion and thinly sliced fresh tomatoes.
  • Add a layer of crisp, fresh lettuce.
  • Drizzle with Italian dressing to taste
  • Top the sandwich with the other half of the French bread.
  • Enjoy.

RECIPE: 

The Angelo's Tuscan Breeze

-1.5 ounces Raspberry Vodka

-1.5 ounces Coconut Rum

-Equal Parts Cranberry and Pineapple Juices

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