There’s a chill in the air and I feel like diving into something hot and spicy. Think I’ll take a trip down New Orleans way. Well, if you’re in the same boat as me, you probably can’t make the trip right now. But don’t despair; we have our own little bit of Crescent City right here at the Lake. Just cruise down Hwy 5 to Sunrise Beach where Shrimp Daddy’s, A Dive With Dreams, sits perched atop the Hurricane Deck. Look for the bright shrimp-pink building across Hwy 5 from The Sunrise Cantina. That’s only two miles north of the F Road stoplight and just south of lake road 5-33.

The roots of Shrimp Daddy’s go back almost twenty years when Dean and Theresa Underwood were enjoying a leisurely dinner at Pat O’Brien’s legendary New Orleans eatery. Dean, who was currently living in Kansas City, commented that he wished they could get good seafood in the Midwest. As fate would have it, a shrimp boat captain was sitting at the next table and said he could solve that problem. From this encounter Dean developed a wholesale seafood business in KC.

About ten years later, Dean and Theresa decided it was time to escape city life for something a little more relaxed. They looked around all the usual snowbird destinations like Florida, Arizona and even the Caribbean but were irresistibly drawn to the place they had frequently vacationed, The Lake of the Ozarks. That’s when Dean’s life-long love of cooking began to coalesce into a vocation.

As a child he helped out in the kitchen, learning the secrets of good Creole cuisine. He already had experience in restaurant management, having worked for the Hilton Hotel chain as a troubleshooter. Theresa had experience as a bartender. What could be more natural than starting their own restaurant in their new-found home? But it had to be done right. Nothing short of perfection would satisfy these two.

They spent six years planning their dream place. First they registered the domain name, shrimpdaddys.com. They weren’t going to let that fish get away! Then they looked at property after property. They would know the perfect spot when they saw it. Lesser mortals might have settled for a compromise after a few years of disappointment, but not them.

While the hunt was on, Dean spent time in the kitchen working on the menu. Like a true artist, he lets his creativity work for him. He starts “playing around” with different combinations and methods until he comes up with something uniquely his own. Wouldn’t you have liked to be one of the lucky friends who got a call saying “Dean’s whipped up something new. Wanna come over and try some?” Well, actually you can, sort of. Dean still spends the slower winter season experimenting in the kitchen. He’s always looking for new taste treats to entice his loyal fans and he likes to work out the bugs before business heats up in the summer. He has to get it just right.

Then, finally, the perfect place became available. It sat on one of the highest points above the lake. Looking southeast, it commands a spectacular view far into the distance. It’s the perfect place to watch the sunset without having to stare straight into the sun. They even added a screened porch beyond a glass garage door/wall to take full advantage of the summer breezes and the nightly spectacle.

Keep On Truckin’

True to their mascot, Clerf/, the jolly shrimp in a cocktail glass, Shrimp Daddy’s takes their shrimp very seriously. Like a steely eyed Bob Mitchum barreling down Thunder Road with a full load, Dean makes a monthly cannonball run to rendezvous with a shrimp boat in New Orleans. There he fills up his truck with freshly caught jumbo shrimp and high tails it back to the Ozark hills. Once here the tasty crustaceans are served in a variety of creative dishes.

As I sit at the bar one crisp Autumn day watching the clouds roll by, Dean and Theresa chat about their long journey to this place. Theresa teases old stories out of Dean. Of course, he sees nothing extraordinary about all they’ve accomplished. He knew what he wanted and so, it happened. Theresa disappears at one point and then, suddenly, places before me a plate with three of the biggest, most beautifully prepared shrimp that I’ve seen in a long time.

The Coconut Shrimp is butterflied and encrusted with thick coconut shavings, then fried extra crispy. I dip them into the honey/Creole mustard sauce and experience a heavenly combination. Who would have thought that mustard and coconut could taste so good together? I’m used to this dish served with a sweet Asian sauce, which seems like a natural combination with the sweet coconut. But here the sweetness of the coconut just wraps itself around the tangy mustard and the flavors pop in your mouth. If the shrimp wasn’t so fresh, it might get lost in the shuffle. Instead it easily stands up to the strong flavors.

Next I try the “Sea Hawg,” another innovative dish. Here a shrimp is stuffed with a little horseradish and wrapped in a thick slice of bacon. I dip it in the dilled sour cream sauce. This is totally savory. Even if, like me, you’re not a big fan of sour cream, this is deliciously dilly and smooth. The bacon, from Kenny Halteman a local meat wholesaler, is well smoked and very tasty. You can’t just wrap a shrimp this good in any old greasy slab. We’re livin’ high on the hog here!

Even the relatively plain, breaded shrimp with cocktail sauce is special. The light breading has a perfect crisp crunch. Like everything that’s breaded here, it is coated just before cooking to keep down the glutens. I hadn’t ordered breaded shrimp in years. It always seemed to be a whole lot of gooey breading and not much else. Not here. If you’re not feeling adventurous enough to try one of Dean’s wilder ideas, this is the perfect comfort food for you.

Dean says “You don’t have to eat all of it if you don’t want to.” Maybe he thinks I’m merely trying to be polite.

“Are you kidding?” I say, as I stuff more into my mouth.

The waitress stops by a while later and takes away my empty plate. “See” she says, “I knew she’d eat it all.” How could I help it? Shrimp is my number one, all time favorite food. I’m in heaven! Oh my!

Good Juju in this Voodoo

Red Beans and Rice sounds like a simple dish. But like everything else here, it is so much more. The Camellia beans, a Southern kidney bean variety, are large, meaty and cooked to just the right firmness. They float in a thick, spicy broth with large chunks of Andouille sausage and Chisesi ham. Their special blend of herbs and garlic infuses everything with an intense flavor. A mound of rice sits in the middle of the bowl and two slices of grilled French bread rest on the rim, ready to soak up every last bit. This is down-home, totally satisfying good. It’s the ideal soup for a chilly day.

For the perfect meal under $10, pair the beans with KZ’s Voodoo Salad. A sweet and sour dressing coats chunks of Romaine lettuce. Shards of Provel cheese, pimento and purple onion are generously sprinkled across the mound. The pungent cheese and sharp onions take the sweet edge off the dressing, keeping it from becoming cloying. This is another creative spin on a humble dish.

The Andouille that they use in the beans and rice, as well as in their Jambalaya and Gumbo, also comes up north on Dean’s runs. This he picks up in La Place LA from a company that’s been in business since about 1928. They still use their original, well-seasoned, wooden smokers so the sausage develops a rich flavor that it easily imparts to any dish. Remember how intense the smoked meats were at the old Hickory Pits way back in the‘50’s and 60’s? It’s reminds me of that. A lot of sausage companies have added this traditional Creole sausage to their product line today. I use them as an “alright” substitute, but this is the real deal. No acrid tasting Liquid Smoke here!

Another Louisiana specialty they bring up from NOLA is Chisesi ham. The secret curing process that the Chisesi brothers use creates a ham unlike any other I’ve ever had. Now, my dad ran the hog division at the family livestock commission company, so a lot of ham has passed through my mouth over the years. I know ham pretty well and I hardly know how to describe this one. It doesn’t taste smoky or salty like a Smithfield ham. It has a sweet flavor similar to an air cured ham, but the texture is lighter and the meat is juicier than a Parma ham. It isn’t stringy at all and has a bright pink color. You can bite through it easily so it makes a great sandwich. Here they serve it hot or cold in a Po-Boy. It is sliced thick on French bread with a choice of American, Swiss or Cheddar cheese. I like it best with the Swiss.

Their French bread is yet another reason to keep coming back to this little gem on 5. Dean hauls it up from Leidenheimer Bakery in New Orleans. It is crispy on the outside and light on the inside. It’s baked in a misting oven then flash frozen, so Shrimp Daddy’s just has to bake it a few minutes to revive its fresh taste. When they toast it Bruschetta style, it is a real treat. They could just run a bread store selling this and I’d be happy!

I’ve only scratched the surface of their offerings. Their menu is kept small on purpose; they only want to serve the very best, but every item is a treat. They even get rave reviews for their pork tenderloin sandwich and the competition for those is pretty high at the Lake. I definitely have to try their version, that is, after I’ve had every kind of shrimp that they do.

Once in a Blue Dog

While the food at Shrimp Daddy’s is well worth the trip, the atmosphere helps keep people coming back. When you walk in the door, its like coming into Dean and Theresa’s home. They treat everyone like a favorite friend. Dean greets everyone and wanders around from table to table chatting and making sure everyone is happy. Theresa, behind the bar, keeps things humming. The waitresses never leave you feeling stranded. They always seem to keep an eye on you, no matter how many tables they’re working. I’ve never had to wait around ages just to get my check, which can be a frustrating ending to a meal.

The decor, a cheery mix of the traditional Mardi Gras colors of gold, purple and green, is well designed and full of personal touches. A shrimp-pink shell is carved into the front door. A collection of French masks hangs above the bar. The ladies room is painted bright pink with black trim and a flamingo picture. The divider that screens the bathrooms from the dining room is covered with prints from Theresa’s favorite artist, George Rodrique. He’s a New Orleans outsider artist with a whimsical series called “Blue Dogs”. The wacky, quirky images are right at home here.

Saturday Afternoon Fever

If you’re an Iowa Hawkeye fan and feeling left out in all the local Tiger frenzy, you have a place to go on game days. Theresa, an Iowa City native and devoted fan, always has the game playing with Hawkeye direct. The game’s always on at Shrimp Daddies. So pull out the black and gold and pull up a seat. I have to admit that when I, a Mizzou alum, was there one Saturday; all the Hawkeye’s treated me civilly. After living in Wisconsin for years among all the zealous Packer fans, that was a pleasant surprise.

Game or no game, I think they just like to throw a party. Of course they celebrate Mardi Gras. This year they’re thinking of ordering a King Cake to top off the feast. I’m planning on attending their annual Shrimpo Di Maio celebration. Just the name alone sounds like fun.

They throw a good party for Halloween. Costumes aren’t required, but apparently many who came last year without one are planning to wear one this year. There will be appetizer giveaways, which gets my attention. To find out more and see photos of all the fun, just log on to www.shrimpdaddys.com. You’re sure to find something enticing there. As for me I’m thinking of going as a giant shrimp. I bet I could even get a prize for that! Or at least maybe a free drink. With my luck, though, Dean will wrap me in bacon and through me onto the fire!

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(1 Ratings)